Footwear



Oct. 3, 1967 F. J. DIAMANT 3,344,537

I FOOTWEAR Filed-March 26. 1965 Fly 4 ZZ FREDERICK J. DIAMANT 8) UnitedStates Patent 3,344,537 FOOTWEAR Frederick J. Diamant, Desco ShoeCorporation, 16 E. 34th St., New York, N.Y. 10016 Filed Mar. 26, 1965,Ser. No. 442,981 9 Claims. (Cl. 36-2.5)

- This invention relates to footwear, and more particularly to footwearhaving novel construction features.

Numerous forms of shoes have been proposed heretofore wherein cushioningmeans such'as a layer of foam rubber is provided in the sole of theshoe. The provision of such a cushioning means greatly increases thecomfort of the shoe particularly to those people who stand on their feetfor great lengths of time or do a considerable amount of walking. Theconstruction of such shoes has heretofore been completely sliplastedwith a platform visible about the entire periphery of the shoe includingthe quarter portion. The presence of a platform in the quarter portionof the shoe has several disadvantages. Among them are that it makes forgrinning stitches, unclean heelseats, and an uneven heelseat width.

The present invention overcomes the foregoing disadvantages, and inaddition allows a more sturdy counter to be used than is practical inthe type of shoe which is sliplasted around the entire periphery of theshoe. Thus, it is possible to use a counter which has been molded to thelast and is much longer than would be practical in completely sliplastedshoes. An additional advantage of the construction disclosed herein isthat it provides the shoe with the slick look resulting from aplatformless quarter and back. Further, the shoe used in the presentconstruction permits the use of wedge type heels, stack heels, straightback heels, half-breasted heels and full Louis heels which if applied toa completely slip-lasted shoe would be of such disagreeable appearanceas to be commerically unsuccessful.

The present invention seeks to overcome the above-mentioneddisadvantages and to achieve the indicated advantage by providing a shoeconstruction wherein the forepart of the'shoe is sliplasted and therearward portion of the shoe is formed with a compo back.

It is an object of the present invention to provide an article offootwear having a novel construction.

It is another object of the present invention to provide a shoeconstructed in a novel manner wherein the forepart of the shoe issliplasted and the rear part of the shoe is of compo construction.

It is another object of the present invention to provide a novel cushionsole type of footwear.

Other objects will appear hereinafter.

For the purpose of illustrating the invention, there is shown in thedrawings a form which is presently preferred; it being understood,however, that this invention is not limited to the precise arrangementsand instrumentalities shown.

FIGURE 1 is a side elevational view of the shoe constructed inaccordance with the present invention.

FIGURE 2 is an enlarged partial transverse sectional view taken alongthe line 2-2 in FIGURE 1.

FIGURE 3 is a side elevational view of a partly constructed shoe inaccordance with the present invention. FIGURE 4 is an enlarged bottomview of the shoe shown in FIGURE 3 taken along the line 4-4 of FIG- URE3.

FIGURE 5 is a longitudinal sectional view of the shoe shown in FIGURE 4taken along the line 55 of FIG- URE 4. p

Referring now to the drawing in detail, wherein like numerals indicatelike elements, there is shown in FIG- URE 1 a shoe designated generallyas 10.

3,344,537 Patented Oct. 3, 1967 The shoe 10 comprises an upper 12 whichmay take the form of known uppers proposed heretofore in accordance withthe style being worn. For purpose of illustration, the upper 12 for theshoe 10 is shown as being of the type having a closed toe and closedback or quarter. Thus, the upper 12 includes a vamp portion 14 and aclosed rear quarter portion 16.

The shoe 10 is provided with an outsole 18 and a heel 20. The forepartof the upper 12 is provided with a platform wrapper 22 which is stitchedto the upper 12 and lasted over platform 24. The platform 24 may be madeof fiber or paper or cork or any suitable material. The outsole 18 isglued or otherwise attached to the lasting margin 26 of the platformwrapper 22.

The inner side of the quarter 16 is provided with a counter liner 28which is stitched along the top margin of the quarter 16 as indicated bythe numeral 30 showing the stitching. The bottom portion of the counterliner 28 extends well forward along the shank portion 32 of the shoe.Thus, as shown, the counter liner 28 extends forward to a position whichis over three-quarters of the length of the shank portion 32.

Counter 34 can be a non-molded counter preferably,

but not necessarily of thermo-plastic material. Such counter canoptionally also be shaped with the same bottom periphery as 28, andstitched in along counter liner 28 rather than be inserted as is themolded counter 34, which is practically as long in its bottom peripheryas quarter 16. The counter 34 may be made of any wellknown materialssuch as molded leather fiber or a thermoplastic material. The shoe 10 isalso provided with an insole-sock lining structure designated generallyas 36 having the same peripheral contour as the outsole 18. Theinsole-sock lining structure 36 includes a layer of canvas 38 that maybe fused to or adhesively secured to a layer of foam synthetic resin 40such as foam polyurethane. In the preferred embodiment no adhesive isused. A leather insole 42 is fused to or adhesively secured to the otherside of the layer of foam resin 40. As shown more clearly in FIGURE 5,stitching 44 is provided around the periphery of the structure 36 withsaid stitching extending through the can vas layer 38, foam resin 40,and the insole 42. The lastmentioned stitching performs the function ofreducing the peripheral thickness of the structure 36. An alternativeway of reducing the peripheral thickness of the structure 36 is to shavethe thickness of foam resin 40. Prior to the application of thestitching 44, the structure 36 has a thickness of approximately /8 of aninch with the layer of foam resin having a thickness of about /2 of aninch.

As shown most clearly in FIGURE 5, the entire forepart of the structure36 is attached to the vamp 14 by stitching 46. The stitching 46 may bethe same stitching which attaches the platform wrapper 22 to the vamp 14and the counter liner 28 to quarter 16.

The structure 36 is attached to the upper 12 only along the periphery ofthe fore portion of the shoe. Thus, the platform wrapper 22 andstructure 36 are attached around the periphery of the fore portion ofthe shoe from a point extending from the position where the foremostportion of the counter liner is stitched to the quarter portion. Thisposition is indicated generally by the numeral 48, and it correspondswith the above-mentioned extension of the counter liner to a position atleast three-quarters of the forward extension of the shank portion 32.The edges of the structure 36 and forepart of the upper 12 are concealedby the platform wrapper 22. As indicated above, the upper edge of theplatform wrapper 22 is secured to the upper and to the structure 36 by aline of stitching 46. As best shown in FIGURES 2 and 4, the stitching 46is concealed from view by wrapping the platform wrapper over itself andlasting it to a position between the outsole 18 and platform 24.

The rear portion of the structure 36 is stitched to the bottom edge ofthe counter liner 28. This is illustrated in FIGURE 5 by the stitching48 which is done in one continuous operation from the forepart 18. Asthus constructed, the laminated structure 36 is fully attached about itsentire periphery. However, the fore portion of the laminated structure36 is stitched to the upper 12 and the rear portion is stitched to thelower edge of the counter pocket 28.

As best shown in FIGURES 4 and 5, the back or quarter portion of theupper is provided with an integral lasting allowance or margin 50. Theprovision of a lasting margin 50 is sometimes referred to as a compotype of construction. As shown, the lasting margin extends along thequarter portion from a position immediately juxtaposed to the rearmostportion of the sliplasted forepart of the shoe. When the shoe isconstructed, the lasting allowance or margin 50 is heelseatlasted overthe platform 24.

A line of stitching 52 in the form of a closed loop is spaced from theperiphery of the structure 36. The stitching 52 extends through theinsole 42, layer of resin 40, and layer of canvas 38 at the position ofthe insole which is adapted to support the ball of the foot. Thus, theprovision of the stitching 52 substantially eliminates the possibilityof slippage between the insole and the layer of foam resin 26. Thestitching 52 is provided even though the insole 42 is adhesively securedto the layer of foam resin 40.

As indicated above, the quarter portion of the shoe includes a heel 20.The heel is shown as a stack type heel. However, it is to be understoodthat the heel 20 may take other forms such as wedge type, straight back,halfbreasted, and full Louis.

It will be noted that the stitching 52 materially reduces the thicknessof the laminated structure 36 thereby substantially increasing theheight of the structure 36 adjacent to the stitching. This is believedto be the result of the squeezing out of the foam resin. Accordingly,the portion of the structure 36 within the closed loop formed by thestitching 52 is substantially greater than the height of the remainderof the structure 36. This prevents the stitching from becoming a sourceof irritation to the ball of the foot of the wearer and provides aquilting effect. In actual shoes, it has been found that the mostdesirable results are attained when the stitching 52 extends from aportion immediately in front of the arch support to a pointapproximately /1 of an inch from the tip of the shoe, with the stitching52 being spaced inwardly approximately of an inch from the stitching 44.In this manner, substantially the entire portion of the ball of the footis supported by that portion of the laminated structure 36 enclosedwithin the loop for-med by the stitching 52.

The shoe is constructed in the following manner. The upper 12 is cut andstitched into the correct form such as that which is shown in thedrawing. The counter liner 28 is stitched into the inside of the quarterportion by the stitching 30. Next, the laminated structure 36 isstitched to the forepart of the upper and to the counter liner 28.Simultaneously or separately the platform wrapper 22 is stitched ontothe forepart or vamp portion of the upper as shown in FIGURE 5. Asshown, the back of the upper has previously been cut with the lastingmargin 50 extending from the quarter portion. A platform 24, preferablyhaving a fiber shank part with a steel shank (not shown) attached, isspotted onto the canvas layer 38 either on top of the seams or betweenthe seams of the structure 36. Next, the platform wrapper 22 is lastedover a portion of the bottom surface of the platform 24 in the mannerknown in the art. Then a counter 34, which is preferably a fiatthermo-plastic counter which may be shaped as shown or which could havebeen previously secured to upper or counter liner 28 with the same shapeas said liner 28, is inserted in the pocket created at the back part ofthe upper between the liner and the quarter portion 16 of the upper.Finally, the lasting allowance or margin 50 is heelseatlasted in aconventional manner. It should be noted that the steel shank may beattached to the platform after spotting if desired.

When the shoe has reached the condition of construction thus fardescribed it is ready to be roughed, cemented, sole spotted, heeled,etc., as known in the art. It is also ready for last-pulling andcompletion in the usual manner.

The construction of the fore portion of the shoe is often referred to asCalifornia or sliplasted construction. The construction of the backportion of the shoe is often referred to as compo construction.

A shoe constructed as heretofore described, that is with a sliplastedconstruction in the forepart and a compo back or quarter portion hasseveral distinct advantages. First of all, it permits the insole to becompletely sliplasted with the inherent advantages of flexibility,softness, lightweight and high cushioning. Furthermore, the compoconstruction of the quarter portion presents a neat and slick appearancewhich is important in permitting the shoe to have a greater commercialappeal. This is particularly true when heel construction other than thewedge type heel is used. Heretofore, shoes constructed with stack orfull Louis type heels on a full California or sliplasted construction,that is with a platform wrapper around the entire periphery of the shoe,have not been sufiiciently neat in appearance to attract purchasers inthe highly competi tive shoe industry. Moreover, the absence of avisable platform in the rear portion of the shoe eliminates grinningstitches, unclean heelseats, and uneven heelseat width. Anotheradvantage of the shoe constructed in accordance with the presentinvention is that the counter extends much farther forward than hadheretofore been practical for the economical manufacture of shoes withthe result that a much more sturdy quarter portion is provided.

The present invention may be embodied in other specific forms withoutdeparting from the spirit or essential attributes thereof and,accordingly, reference should be made to the appended claims, ratherthan to the foregoing specification as indicating the scope of theinvention.

I claim:

1. A shoe comprising an upper, an outsole, an insole, said upperincluding a vamp portion and a quarter portion, said insole beingsecured to said upper only at the vamp portion of said upper, a wrapperstrip extending from and secured only to said vamp portion of saidupper, said outsole being secured to said wrapper strip and the quarterportion of said upper, a counter liner in said quarter portion, and saidinsole being secured to said counter liner adjacent a lower edge of saidcounter iner.

2. A shoe comprising an upper forming a vamp portion and a quarterportion, a counter liner, an insole secured to said upper only at thevamp portion of said upper and to said counter liner, a platform wrapperdepending from and secured to said vamp portion, said quarter portionincluding a lasting extension lasted over said insole, a counterdisposed between said counter liner and said quarter portion, and anoutsole secured to said extension and said platform Wrapper.

3. A shoe in accordance with claim 2 wherein said counter and saidcounter liner extends around said quarter portion from a positionadjacent the rearmost extension of said vamp portion.

4. A shoe in accordance with claim 2 wherein said counter is made of amolded leather fiber.

5. A shoe in accordance with claim 2 wherein said counter is made of athermoplastic.

6. A shoe in accordance with claim 2 wherein said insole includes alayer of foam resin secured to said insole.

7. A shoe comprising an upper forming a vamp por tion and a quarterportion, an insole secured to the vamp portion of said upper, a platformwrapper extending from and secured to said vamp portion, a platformbelow said insole, said quarter portion including a lasting extensionlasted over a portion of the bottom surface of said platform, saidplatform wrapper being lasted over a portion of the bottom surface ofsaid platform, a counter liner secured to said heel portion, said insolebeing secured to said counter liner, a counter disposed between saidcounter liner and said quarter portion, and an outsole secured to saidextension and said platform wrapper.

8. A shoe in accordance with claim 7 wherein said counter liner and saidlasting extension extend around the periphery of said quarter portionfrom points on either side of said shoe which are adjacent the rearmostextension of said platform wrapper, said points being located atsubstantially the foremost extension of the shank portion of said shoe.

9. A shoe comprising an upper forming a vamp portion and a quarterportion, an insole secured to the vamp portion of said upper, a platformwrapper extending from and secured to said vamp portion, said quarterportion including a lasting extension over said insole, a counter linersecured to said quarter portion, a counter disposed between said counterliner and said quarter portion, an outsole secured to said extension andsaid platform wrapper, said insole comprising an insole layer, a layerof foam resin juxtaposed said insole layer, and an outer layerjuxtaposed the side of said foam resin opposite the insole layer, andstitching in the form of a close loop extending through said insole,said layer of foam resin, and said outer layer, said loop being whollydisposed at the position of said insole adapted to support the ball ofthe foot, thereby providing a slippage control between said insole layerand said layer of foam resin.

References Cited UNITED STATES PATENTS 1,795,305 3/1931 Jacob 3692,723,468 11/1955 Marcy 3668 2,73 6,109 2/1956 Scholl 3644 2,755,5687/1956 Menge 3644 X 3,049,815 8/1962 Davis 3668 3,165,841 1/ 1965Rollrnan 362.5

PATRICK D. LAWSON, Primary Examiner.

1. A SHOE COMPRISING AN UPPER, AN OUTSOLE, AN INSOLE, SAID UPPERINCLUDING A VAMP PORTION AND A QUARTER PORTION, SAID INSOLE BEINGSECURED TO SAID UPPER ONLY AT THE VAMP PORTION OF SAID UPPER, A WRAPPERSTRIP EXTENDING FROM AND SECURED ONLY TO SAID VAMP PORTION OF SAIDUPPER, SAID OUTSOLE BEING SECURED TO SAID WRAPPER STRIP